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Saturday, June 30, 2012

Custom Menswear Etailer Indochino Sets Its Sights Offline

It was 2006 and Heikal Gani was in need of a suit. Gani, then a student at the University of Victoria in British Columbia, exhausted the inventories of offline and online retailers, eventually settling for what he describes as a “generic, off-the-rack garment” that required “extensive and expensive” tailoring.
This experience was the genesis for Indochino, which began selling made-to-measure suits online in the spring of 2007. Gani and his company have since added shirts — its fastest-growing category — as well as blazers, coats, pants and accessories (ties, belts, cufflinks, pocket squares, etc.) to its catalog of offerings. Approximately 55 people are employed at its two offices in Vancouver and Shanghai. Orders have been shipped to more than 60 countries.
The ordering process, I now know from personal experience, takes less than 30 minutes. Shoppers select from a range of styles and, through a series of short, instructional videos, are shown how to record their measurements (the company recommends a second person take the measurements, but it’s technically possible for individuals to take their own).
Beyond fit, various details of each garment can be customized: On suits, for instance, shoppers can specify a monogram, the number of jacket vents and buttons, the color of the lining, if they’d like slanted and pen pockets and whether they’d prefer functional sleeve buttonholes, among other things (I’m told that functional sleeve buttonholes are a sign of tailor-made suits. In fact, many people leave one button unfastened to draw attention to it).


Indochino sent me a voucher for a free suit, and I invited my fashionable friend Michael over to the office to place an order. Michael, for background, is a 29-year-old English lawyer who typically orders custom-made suits and shirts from a tailor in New York.
Michael chose one of Indochino’s more expensive suits — a $599 navy suit with a white pinstripe. He was impressed with the number of customization options — he was particularly pleased he could add a fictional boutouneire to his suit, which would be ideal for a wedding — and how quickly we were able to choose a suit and gather measurements. He was less confident, however, in my measuring ability, noting that some of the measurements I came up with were different than his tailor’s. When the suit arrived four weeks later, he said he was pleased with the packaging, as well as the quality of the suit, but he wasn’t pleased with the fit.
“It’s too baggy,” he said. “I prefer a European fit, and this is more of an American fit.”


Michael’s suit, as photographed with my iPhone.

Michael decided to take the suit in to his regular tailor to have the fit adjusted. Indochino offers a credit of up to $75 to have a suit adjusted by a local tailor, and will either make up a new suit or issue a full refund if it’s deemed unalterable.
I relayed Michael’s feedback back to Indochino’s other cofounder, Kyle Vucko. “It’s difficult,” Vucko admitted. “Measurements can be done incorrectly. And even if they are done correctly, our perception of a good fit and a customer’s perception of a good fit can be two very different things.” It’s for that reason Indochino offers the $75 credit.
It’s also one of the reasons that has led Indochino to recognize the necessity of developing an offline footprint. The company launched a pop-up shop series dubbed Traveling Tailor, which will be making its way to the U.S. in the near future. At the shops, men can touch and feel the materials, get their measurements taken and learn more about the brand.
“It’s the next step in our evolution,” Vucko explains. “In the first part, we did predominantly suits, and online-only. Six months ago we got into pop-up stores. Our long-term version is to become a full-fledged clothing company” — one that sells both online and has “offline touchpoints,” Vucko says.
His vision for the company follows a trajectory similar to that of Bonobos, a five-year-old online menswear retailer. The company got its start selling men’s pants with a unique fit, expanded to other categories and is now making its way into Nordstrom stores nationwide.
Indochino has raised about $5 million in venture capital to date, and Vucko says additional funding is “on the horizon” this year. When asked about womenswear, he acknowledged it was something the company had explored but had no plans to launch within the next year. Women, he explained, are simply much more difficult to create flattering clothes for. The company has been looking into better fit systems — Vucko is particularly excited about Kinect’s potential as a body-scanner — but doesn’t believe the tech is there yet.
Indochino’s biggest competitor — stateside, at least — is J Hilburn, a four-year-old company also in the business of made-to-order menswear. The big differentiator? J Hilburn has a network of 1,000 “style advisors” who come to customers’ homes and offices to take measurements and advise orders. That’s an inconvenience for some, but a worthy alternative for those who don’t feel comfortable taking their own measurements and are willing to pay more for their suits, which begin at $700.
Would you order custom-made clothes online? Share your thoughts in the comments.

Apple Gets Judge to Block Sale of Nexus, Android’s Only Jelly Bean Phone

It’s not how Google would have wanted to end one of its best weeks ever.
On the last day of a stellar Google I/O conference, where the search and software giant unveiled a slew of new products including Android 4.1 Jelly Bean, rival Apple successfully blocked the sale of the Samsung Galaxy Nexus.
That’s the Jelly Bean-capable phone — currently, the only Jelly Bean-capable phone — which Google had been handing out all week to developers.
U.S. District Court Judge Lucy Koh, based in San Jose, just down the road from Apple’s Cupertino campus, granted Apple the preliminary injunction Friday afternoon in an ongoing patent dispute. It won’t go into effect until Apple posts a $96 million bond, meant to cover damages Samsung would have incurred from lost sales if Koh ultimately rules in favor of the Nexus.

SEE ALSO: Apple v. Samsung: the Patent Wars Explained


But given how swiftly Apple moved to post the bond that blocked sales of another Samsung product, the Galaxy Tab, earlier this week — indeed, given how much of its considerable war chest Apple has been sinking into this Samsung patent battle — we don’t expect that $96 million hurdle to hold Apple up for long.
So if you were thinking about buying a Galaxy Nexus, currently available in Ice Cream Sandwich (Android 4.0) flavor, now would be the time.
The significance of the Galaxy Nexus cannot be overstated. It is the only Android phone on the market that runs pure Android; the phone carriers haven’t put any of their own layers of software (known as “skins”) over it. It was the first phone to launch with Ice Cream Sandwich, and the only one (alongside the Nexus S) that has announced a date for its official Jelly Bean update (mid-July.)
Not if Apple has its way, however. “It’s no coincidence that Samsung’s latest products look a lot like the iPhone and iPad, from the shape of the hardware to the user interface and even the packaging,” the Cupertino company said in a statement.
“As we’ve said many times before, we need to protect Apple’s intellectual property when companies steal our ideas.”
Koh’s injunction means she thinks there’s a strong chance Apple will be able to prove its patent-infringing case; it focuses on one patent in particular, covering voice search. That Siri vs. Google Voice Search battle seems about to become even more of a smackdown.
Were you thinking of getting a Nexus? What do you make of the injunction and the ongoing Apple-Android patent war? Let us know in the comments.






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